For those of you who love cranberry sauce and have never made it, I have one question: WHY? Are you so attached to the geometric uniformity of that jellied cylinder that plops out of an Ocean Spray can that you would deny yourself the sensory bonanza of making the sauce from scratch? Do you realize how easy it is? Do you? OK, I’ve asked more than one question, so I’ll stop and just let you know that, once I began making fresh cranberry sauce several years ago, I never turned back. It is one of my favorite things to make, and I look forward to the time of year when cranberries come in season (and even beyond then, as fresh berries can be frozen) and I can whip up the sauce.
I do have a sort of recipe, but the beauty of cranberry sauce is that it is one of those free-form type of concoctions that can be varied and tailored to the cook’s tastes. You can make it as sweet as you like; more tart if you prefer, add elements of citrus or chunks of apple or pear. In the past I have implemented fresh persimmon puree into my sauce. I have a friend who infuses fresh ginger root into the sauce, and I’ve read other recipes where toasted walnuts are a worked in for a crunch. So it’s very interpretive – you can personalize your sauce as you like and vary it from year to year.
You get more out of making cranberry sauce than cranberry sauce. As I mentioned, there is a sensory parade in the process. All five senses are activated and treated here. Touch the feathery orange zest as you wipe it off the microplane with your big finger and squeeze into the pan the juice from the zested orange. As the berries are heating, listen to their music – the delightful, wet “pop†they make as they burst open. You want aromatherapy? Inhale the citrus and cranberry, add a little cinnamon and cloves, some apple juice and you’ve made the nose and the whole house merry. Behold the jeweled, deep red of the stewed mixture, a visually stunning ruby like no other – you have sauced the brightest berry. And at last the taste – tart, tangy and a perfect accompaniment to not only turkey, but chicken, pork and even fish. Top your stuffing with some. Add it to your leftover turkey sandwiches — try a grilled cheese sandwich using sourdough bread, thin slices of granny smith apples, wedges of brie, turkey and cranberry sauce. Mix the sauce into Greek yogurt for breakfast or a snack.
Cranberry Sauce
½ cup apple or cranberry juice
Zest and juice of one orange
¾ cup sugar (this can be modified – use less if you want a tartier sauce)
½ teaspoon cinnamon
Pinch of cloves
Pinch of salt
One 12-ounce package fresh (or frozen) cranberries
Two Granny Smith apples, cored, peeled and chopped
In a two-quart saucepan, pour the apple or cranberry juice, then add the zest and orange juice. Stir in sugar, cinnamon, cloves and salt; cook over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Add apples and cranberries. Reduce heat and continue to simmer on medium-low, stirring occasionally, until cranberries have “popped†and stewed down. The sauce should have the consistency of a thick jam. This could take 15 to 20 minutes. Makes about 2-1/2 to 3 cups of sauce.